Your first indoor cycling class is about to start, the others are already in the saddle, and you set up your bike by guesswork. Half an hour later, your knee twinges or your neck tightens up. Incorrect settings very quickly lead to pain and possibly to overuse problems. That is why setting up the bike is the first task before every class, and you will usually have mastered the basic set-up yourself after three or four classes. Here you will learn step by step how to adjust the saddle, handlebars and pedals and which mistakes put strain on your knees and back.
Getting to know the bike: saddle, handlebars, fixed gear and brake
The most important settings are the same for all manufacturers: saddle height, fore-aft position (the position of the saddle forwards and backwards), saddle tilt and handlebar height, usually adjustable with screw knobs or levers.
- Saddle and handlebars: Depending on the model, they can be adjusted continuously or in steps. If the adjustments are marked with numbers or symbols, make a note of your settings for next time. Padded cycling shorts or a gel cover help to prevent pressure points on the usually hard saddles.
- Fixed gear: The flywheel is firmly connected to the crank, and the pedals keep turning as long as it is in motion. You cannot freewheel as you would on a normal bicycle. This forces you into a clean, round pedal stroke but carries a risk: if you lose contact with the pedal at a high cadence, the crank that keeps turning can hit your shin. Secure footing in a toe cage or clip-in pedal is therefore essential.
- Resistance and brake: You usually adjust the resistance continuously with a rotary knob, often without numbers. This way, you ride according to how you feel instead of competing with the bike next to you. The brake is closely linked to the resistance: by pulling or pushing, depending on the model, you stop the flywheel immediately in an emergency.
The basic set-up in five steps
This is how to proceed so that the settings fit your body:
- Set the saddle height roughly: Stand next to the saddle and bring it to hip height, more precisely to the height of your iliac crest.
- Check the distance to the handlebars: Hold the tip of your elbow against the nose of the saddle. Your outstretched fingers should reach the middle of the handlebars but not go beyond it. If not, adjust the fore-aft position.
- Secure your feet: Sit on the bike and adjust the pedal straps so that your foot sits snugly but not too tightly.
- Check your leg: Bring one pedal all the way down. At the lowest point, your leg stays slightly bent.
- Make the final fore-aft adjustment: Reach forwards to the handlebars. Your back stays straight, without rounding or overarching.
Fine-tuning: saddle height, fore-aft position and tilt
Saddle height: knee slightly bent at the lowest point
You do the fine adjustment on the bike: pedal at the lowest point, foot firmly on the pedal. Now your knee must not be fully straight. If it is straight, the saddle needs to go lower; if it is bent too much, higher. Your feet are parallel to the floor, the ball of your foot is over the pedal axle, and your hips sit still on the saddle as you pedal. Ask the instructor to take a look while you pedal slowly.
- Saddle too high: Your hips rock up and down sideways as you pedal, your knee joints snap straight, and your riding becomes unsteady.
- Saddle too low: Your knees are bent too much and hit the handlebars or your forearms. This can cause knee problems; more on this under knee pain during training.
Fore-aft position: knee over the pedal axle
Bring both pedals to the horizontal position. An imaginary vertical line from the back of your kneecap should pass through the pedal axle. If not, move the saddle forwards or backwards, provided your bike offers this adjustment. An incorrect fore-aft position can cause problems in the lumbar spine and the Achilles tendon and impairs the transfer of power to the pedal.
Saddle tilt: horizontal
Finally, you check the tilt: the saddle should be horizontal, which you can check with a spirit level. If the nose points too far upwards, the pressure on the pubic area or urethra increases, which can cause pressure pain, and the pelvis can tilt backwards. If it points too far down, you slide forwards more easily and put strain on your forearms and wrists. As the tilt can usually only be adjusted with a spanner, ask the instructor to do it.
Handlebar height and the four hand positions
As a rule, the handlebars go at the same height as the saddle. If you have back problems or tension in the cervical spine area, set them as high as possible, and the same applies when you are just starting out. If you want to ride lower in a sporty position, stay no more than 6 to 8 centimetres below saddle height, because this low position requires well-trained core and arm muscles.
There are four basic positions for your hands. In all of them, your elbows and shoulders point downwards in a relaxed way and your back stays straight. This helps your shoulders and wrists to tire less quickly.
- Position 1: the basic seated position. Your hands rest very loosely on the handlebars.
- Position 2: Your hands are further apart at the bend of the handlebars, with both thumbs wrapped around the bar.
- Position 3: for riding out of the saddle on a climb with medium to high resistance. Your hands grip the ends of the handlebars. Shorter people do not reach too far forwards so that their back does not overarch. If you are taller than 180 centimetres, wrap your thumbs around the tips of the handlebars.
- Position 4 (triathlon position): Your forearms rest on the handlebars and your hands grip them at the upper end, mainly at medium pace downhill or on steep climbs. Not every handlebar allows this position.
Sitting posture, round pedal stroke and cadence
A correct sitting position is an essential prerequisite for good pedalling technique: eyes looking ahead, shoulders relaxed, elbows slightly bent, back straight and leaning forwards, pelvis tilted slightly forwards and sitting still on the saddle.
For a round pedal stroke, you push the pedal on the downstroke and pull it on the upstroke. Your legs stay close and parallel to the frame, knees and feet point in the same direction, and the power comes mainly from the leg muscles. Your upper body and head stay still, because frantic bobbing does not make the workout more effective. If you have knock knees or bow legs, pay particular attention to knee alignment, as otherwise the knee can deviate sideways at high cadences.
The right cadence
Cadence counts the revolutions per minute. Three ranges are distinguished:
- 60 to about 85 (climb): optimal force development by the muscles and ideal for beginners. However, the high resistance can quickly tire the muscles.
- 85 to about 105 (flat): already requires a high level of riding technique.
- 105 to about 120 (descent): here, muscle work threatens to drop towards zero, and joint structures and connective tissue take over. These cadences are therefore reserved for experienced riders.
If your bike has no display, measure it yourself: place one hand on your thigh, count how often your knee touches your hand in 15 seconds and multiply by 4. If the music sets the beat, one pedal stroke falls on one beat: 120 beats per minute equal 60 revolutions. The article Endurance training and heart rate shows how you can also control intensity via your pulse.
Typical mistakes that strain the knees, back and neck
Neck and back pain are among the most common complaints in indoor cycling. They are often caused by unrealistic resistance or excessive cadences. Typical mistakes:
- Unsteady in the saddle: Too high a cadence, too little resistance or too high a saddle make the knee movement unstable and cause jolts in the lumbar spine area. Adjust your cadence, increase the resistance if necessary and check the saddle height.
- Raised shoulders: They overload the cervical spine and cause neck tension. Consciously relax your shoulders and change your hand position.
- Weight on your hands on climbs: If you lean your body weight on your hands when riding uphill, you overload your wrist and elbow joints and your cervical spine. Adapt the load to your level.
Practise new techniques slowly at first and always ride with sufficient resistance to protect your joints. You control the bike, not the other way round. Have any complaints checked by a doctor and ask the instructor to check your set-up.
Equipment and conduct in class
- Shorts: close-fitting, padded and worn without underwear. This prevents pressure pain in the perineal and pubic area, whereas normal shorts can lead to chafing.
- Top: A technical shirt wicks sweat away from the skin, while cotton soaks it up and can chill the body.
- Shoes: with a firm sole that transfers power to the pedal, and not too tight, as the foot can swell under load. Tuck your laces into your shoes.
- Towel and water bottle: The towel lies across the handlebars so that it does not get caught in the flywheel. A plastic bottle holding 0.5 to 0.75 litres fits in the holder; glass bottles are not permitted.
Arrive on time, because skipping the warm-up increases the risk of injury. If it is your first time, tell the instructor before the start so that they can show you the settings, the emergency brake and the fixed gear. Ride in your own intensity zone and ease off or stop immediately if you feel unwell or something hurts. Drink regularly, because fluid losses need to be replaced after only a short time (more on adequate fluid intake).
Course tip from update Akademie: If you want not only to set up your own bike but also to guide participants through it, training as a Cycling Instruktor (cycling instructor) is the next step. The course covers technique, the bike and its settings, handlebar positions, pedal stroke and cadence, music and BPM, riding options, class structure, injury prevention and cueing, that is, instructing with voice and gestures. If you are new to group fitness, choose the bundle with Grundlagen Gruppenfitness (group fitness basics).
Frequently asked questions about setting up an indoor cycling bike
How high should the saddle be for indoor cycling?
Stand next to the bike and bring the saddle to the height of your iliac crest. This is followed by the fine adjustment while seated: when the pedal is at its lowest point, your knee is slightly bent but not fully straight. If your leg is straight, the saddle goes lower; if your knee is bent too much, it goes higher.
How far should the saddle be from the handlebars?
For an initial assessment, hold the tip of your elbow against the nose of the saddle: your outstretched fingers should reach the middle of the handlebars but not go beyond it. On the bike, with the pedals horizontal, check whether an imaginary vertical line from the back of your kneecap passes through the pedal axle.
How high should the handlebars be for indoor cycling?
As a rule, set the handlebars at the same height as the saddle. At the beginning, and if you have back problems or tension in the cervical spine area, a higher position is better. If you want to ride lower, stay no more than 6 to 8 centimetres below saddle height, because this position requires well-trained core and arm muscles.
Why do my knees hurt after indoor cycling?
One possible cause is the set-up. A saddle that is too low bends the knees too much and can cause knee problems, while a saddle that is too high makes the knee joints snap straight. Knees that are not kept parallel to the frame can also deviate sideways at high cadences. Check your saddle height and fore-aft position, and have persistent complaints checked by a doctor.
Conclusion
A well set-up bike is the basis for clean technique. The order stays the same: saddle at the height of the iliac crest, check the distance to the handlebars, secure your feet, knee slightly bent at the lowest point, back straight when reaching for the handlebars. Then come the fore-aft position, tilt and handlebar height. With a still upper body, a round pedal stroke and a controlled cadence, you take the strain off your knees, back and neck. Make a note of your settings, and next time you will quickly be sitting correctly again.
